Correct Shoeing for Vets
& Owners
By: Scott Simpson
Quite often an owner, trainer or farrier will fall
heir to a horse that is completely awry as far as training or shoeing is
concerned. Evaluating the problem requires the establishment of a K.D.P.,
or known datum point as it is known to surveyors.
The K.D.P. is actually a compilation of all that
you know about the horse at this specific point in time. The more
information you can formulate, the more accurate your training and/or
shoeing program will be. The K.D.P. is the basis for the need to keep
records of shoeing and training. Recording the K.D.P. of a fresh
shoeing job entails certain key points.
Aside from the usual observations of way of
standing and going, several things need to be carefully noted. The
balance of the foot preparation, the length of the toes and the angle of
each foot need to be recorded.
Style and weight of the new shoes as well as any
accessories added to the shoe should be noted as well. Prior to a fresh
shoeing job, observing the wear of the old shoes can add a great deal of
information to your K.D.P. Uneven side wearing and position of the wear
of break over are useful aides in establishing an accurate set of
records.
Some horses have been so jammed around in their
shoes that it is difficult to tell if the shoeing is helping or
hindering the animal. Should a horse come within your stewardship
carrying an unusual amount of excess baggage in the form of unnatural
balance and/or exotic horseshoes, the farrier and trainer will have some
decision making to do. Unless the horse had come with a manual of
shoeing and training and instruction, the K.D.P. must be evaluated from
what you see.
If the trainer or owner is totally satisfied with
the way the horse performs, it will be important to critically emulate
the previous work. If there is room for improvement, get back to good,
sound basic shoeing and design a sensible program from that point. These
same principles will apply when first placing young horses into a
shoeing
and training program.
The following is an evaluation of elemental
horseshoeing.
HORSESHOEING EVALUATION
Foot Preparation:
The frog: Trimming of the frog should be done to sufficiently restore
shape to the horny structure. (Horny frog should resemble sensitive
frog. ) All diseased portions of the frog should be removed. As much
healthy tissue as possible should be retained. On rare occasions the
frog may be oversized and need to be reduced in size.
The bars: The bars are extensions of the hoof wall
and should be shaped to allow some weight bearing. Desirable shape is
level with the ground surface at the outer perimeter of the heels,
tapering to be the level of the sole at the apex or anterior ends.
Bars should not be trimmed below the level of the
sole. Protruding bars can cause compression of the internal laminae
leaves which form them. This can result in internal bruising which may
predispose the foot to corns.
The sole: The amount of surplus sole which should
be removed is relevant to the amount of excess growth and sometimes the
activity of the horse. Normally, sole is removed in the toe hemisphere
of the foot until it becomes shiny or glossy in appearance. Dead sole is
usually flaky and contains many fissures. Once enough sole has been
removed, the cracks or fissures will be less apparent. The sole to the
rear of the toe should blend smoothly to sole of the toe wall. The sole
should be concaved below the boarder of the hoof wall. Remember: the
wall is the primary weight bearing structure. The wall: The hoof wall
should be trimmed to just above sole level at the toe. The amount of
wall trimmed at the heel should be proportional to the amount off of the
toe.
The proportion is considered correct when both feet
are weight bearing and are neither broken forward nor broken back. In
most cases, the hoof wall should contact the ground
with the medial and lateral sides making even contact. The proximal or
upper 2 inches or the hoof wall dictates its natural slope.
All dishes or flares should be removed until they
become part of this natural slope. Remodeling of abnormally flared or
shaped feet is a commendable practice. There is a lot
of strong prejudice against this procedure because it involves vigorous
rasping of the outer hoof wall. This old-fashioned way of thinking is
outdated and should be discouraged. All sharp edges at the distal border
of the wall should be removed and slightly rounded.
Shoes:
Shoes should be selected to suit the activity of the horse. Normally,
shoes are for the purpose of protection of the feet and support of the
limbs.
The most common error made by inexperienced or
careless horseshoers is the use of shoes which are too small. The shoe
should be as light as practical, but wide enough to offer sufficient
protection to the bottom of the foot. The fit should be exactly to the
perimeter of the foot at the toe and quarters.
The shoe should fit slightly wider than the foot
near the heels. (Approximately 1-1/2" of the heel of the shoe.) This is
called expansion and the amount of expansion ranges from 1/16" - 3/16".
On front feet, the shoe should at least be large
enough to cover the buttress of the heels. On horses with run under
heels, the shoe may need to extend past the buttress of the
heels as much as 1/2". This provides additional support to the flexor
tendons and suspensory ligament.
On most hind feet, the fit will be the same as
front feet except that it is desirable for the heels of the shoes to
extend beyond the buttress of the heels 1/8" - 1/4". This provides
support and protection to the bulbs of the heels while the horse is
stopping or turning.
If a horse has a deformed or broken off edge on the
hoof wall, it is proper to fit the shoe full in this area where the foot
should be.
Nailing: For most activities, six nails should be
sufficient to attach the shoe to the foot. Eight nails may be used on
horses to be used in rough terrain or are troublesome about keeping
shoes on.
Height of the nails should be no lower than 3/4"
above the shoes and no higher than 1". High nailing is preferred by most
professional farriers. On some feet nails driven above 1" may be
desirable for secure nailing.
Clinching and Finishing: Clinches should be square
in shape, embedded in the wall and smooth to the touch. The outer hoof
wall should be smooth to the touch and free from coarse rasp marks. The
periople at the hairline should be undisturbed. |